Tom T's Tips August 29

BUFFALO, N.Y. (WIVB) - Dear Tom,
I own a 2007 Chevrolet Trail Blazer. The dealer that I bought it from says I should change the oil every 6 months or 7500 miles. The owner’s manual says once a year or until the oil life monitor tells me to change it. Which one is correct?
Jack from Madison, WI

Jack,
Follow the oil life monitor. This system is very accurate. The OLM algorithm measures the serviceable oil life based on three criteria: crankcase temperature, combustion chamber events, and moisture. The system has been tested extensively since 1984, so you can trust it. Just make sure that you reset the light when you have the oil changed.
Tom

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 CR-V with power doors. Two months ago I got out of the driver’s side and closed the door. It locked and it’s been locked ever since. It’s the only door that will not open. The Honda dealership told me it would cost $200 just to take the seat out and get the door panel off. They said it could cost another $200 to $400 more for repairs. I can’t afford to pay that much. The car is in good shape, even though it has over 227,000 miles on it. Any suggestions?
DJ from Willingboro, NJ

DJ,
I checked ALLDATA database and the dealer is correct; the seat has to be removed to get the door panel off without breaking it. The only way to gain access to the door latch/lock linkage (in order to get the door open) is to remove this door panel. There’s not other way around it. If you don't want to spend the money and you're don’t have the confidence to repair it yourself, maybe you could live with it. The car doesn’t owe you anything and it’s paid for, right? If you can climb through the window or over the seat to get in or out of it, go for it. A minor inconvenience and price to pay for transportation from A to B when you need wheels and can’t afford the fix. Good luck.
Tom

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4x4 with 102,000 miles. There is a whining sound coming from the rear between 55 and 65 mph. I have had all bearings replaced and the ring & pinion gears show normal wear. Any suggestions?
Eddie from Miami

Eddie,
You failed to mention the rear pinion bearing. Have the lash and up and down play checked for wear. A worn pinion bearing could cause the whine. Also, check the tire wear pattern on the rear tires. A negative wear pattern could also cause a whining sound. If you find a chopped (high-low, cupped) tire wear pattern, try rotating the tires and see if the noise moves to the front. If it does then the tires are making the noise. Success to you.
Tom

Dear Tom,
The muffler on my ‘87 Dodge Diplomat is starting to go. Other than the aesthetics of a quieter car, does the exhaust pipe noise affect the overall mileage of the car?
Sally from Detroit

Sally,
A noisy muffler has no bad side effects except that your hearing is compromised… and possibly a few traffic tickets for violating the noise ordinance in your town! Eventually, when the muffler and exhaust gets bad enough, carbon monoxide could find its way back into the vehicle's cabin and asphyxiate you. But I suppose that's minor compare to the money you have to spend for exhaust replacement … GET IT FIXED!
Tom

Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 Ford Focus. When I use the brakes at a high rate of speed, the tires and steering wheel tremble. It happens after a long ride and it seems worse coming down a hill. Any ideas?
Amelia from Arkansas

Amelia,
Have the brake calipers checked to see of they are sticking after the brakes are applied. It sounds like the brakes are staying on and heating up the rotors, causing them to warp (the reason for the "tremble" you feel). This condition is called pedal pulsation. It seems to happen more after a long ride or coming down a hill because more heat has built up. The fix will involve freeing up the brake calipers, finding out why they are sticking and repair it, resurfacing or replacing the rotors, and replacing the pads.
Tom

Dear Tom,
You recently helped me with my car and I'm back again for help with my daughter’s car. It acts like it’s starving for gas. The car hesitates severely when she accelerates. Last week we had the following work done: A tune up, replaced the fuel filter, installed a coil pack, and added dry gas to the fuel tank. The car still ran the same. Today I took it to an auto parts store and two codes came up: (1) Fuel Metering (2) CO2. I have no idea what Fuel Metering is and the store is of no help. Could it need a fuel pump?
Trixie from Atlanta, GA

Trixie,
I am reluctant to suggest a possible cause of the problem. Why? Because it appears that your auto shop likes to replace parts and “experiment,” which is an inefficient approach to auto repair and costs you a lot of money. Try to find a shop that has the proper diagnostic equipment to track down the cause of this drivability condition. I would also have a flight test performed. During this test, the tech hooks up a diagnostic computer to the vehicle datastream, as well as a fuel pressure gauge. Then he monitors the vehicle's vitals while driving the car. When the drivability problem occurs, the tech can see exactly what's going on in the datastream and he will be able to track the cause of the problem. This approach is a less expensive course of action than the random replacement of parts, relying on luck to fix the problem. Best to you.
Tom

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com